Many dogs love to dig, but some breeds, particularly terriers, are more prone to it due to their history as hunters of small prey underground. Since digging is a natural behaviour, stopping it can be challenging, especially if your dog has developed a habit of creating craters in the garden.

One way to manage this is by designating a specific area of the garden for digging—preferably somewhere less important to you. Make this spot appealing by periodically burying bones or chews and showing your dog where they are. Encourage him to dig there by allowing him to dig up these "treasures." Over time, he'll associate this area with fun and return to it when he feels the urge to dig.

If you catch him digging elsewhere, interrupt the behaviour with an unexpected noise (like shaking a can of pebbles) and immediately lead him to the designated digging spot. Encourage him to dig there instead.

Digging can also be a sign of boredom, especially in active or intelligent dogs. You can enrich their environment by scattering toys stuffed with food treats around the garden or using treat-dispensing balls that release treats slowly as they’re rolled. 

Another strategy is to ensure your dog gets plenty of exercise and mental stimulation before being left alone. A walk before you go out can help burn off excess energy and expose your dog to new scents, making him more relaxed and less likely to dig out of boredom.

Toy or food guarding is a common behaviour issue in adult dogs, but it often starts in puppies and is easier to address early on. Guarding occurs when a puppy growls or shows aggression if someone approaches their food, toys, or other valued items, and this behaviour can escalate into biting.

To prevent guarding, start early by teaching your puppy that human interaction around food is positive. While your puppy is eating, bend down and add something tasty to their bowl, creating a positive association with hands approaching. You can also practice taking the bowl away for a moment and then returning it with a treat inside. If you have multiple dogs, ensure each has their own bowl to avoid food stealing.

The same approach works with bones or chews—exchange the item for a high-value treat and return it later. This teaches the puppy that having their food or toys handled is not a threat. You should also do this with toys, keeping some that are just for you to play with, while limiting access to others to keep them special.

For areas like the couch, the puppy’s bed, or doorways, call the puppy away with a treat and use a command like “off.” Occasionally move their bed or sit in these areas yourself. This helps the puppy understand that these spaces are not for guarding.

By consistently practising these exercises from a young age, you can prevent guarding behaviour from developing as your dog matures.

Puppies don’t instinctively know they should go to the toilet outside—they need to be trained to do so. At around 8 weeks old, puppies have limited bladder control and can’t hold it for more than a few hours, so expect to get up during the night for the first few weeks to take your puppy outside.

Choose a designated spot in the garden where you’d like your puppy to relieve itself. Once trained, dogs tend to be particular about where they go, often returning to the same spot. Consider that you may be walking to this spot in the dark during the night. Also, dogs usually prefer to eliminate on the same type of surface, so a puppy trained to go on grass may prefer it, while one used to concrete or sand may show a preference for those surfaces. (Be aware, if you’re not careful, your puppy may also decide to use your carpet as a toilet!)

Dogs have a natural instinct not to soil their den, which is helpful for house training. Puppies typically need to relieve themselves after sleeping, eating, or playing, so take your puppy outside at these times. When you take your puppy to its designated toilet spot, wait quietly and patiently—don’t distract it with play or excitement. Once your puppy goes, praise it enthusiastically, telling it what a clever puppy it is. You can also add a word or phrase, like "Go wee-wee," during the action. Consistently using this phrase will help your puppy associate it with going to the toilet, which can be very useful when you're travelling or need your dog to go on command.

While your puppy is inside, keep a close eye on it. If you notice it sniffing the ground or starting to squat, immediately say “No” in a firm voice and take it outside to the designated spot. Once it relieves itself, praise it again and use your toilet phrase. Positive reinforcement will help your puppy understand where and when it's appropriate to go.

With patience and consistency, your puppy will quickly learn where and when to relieve itself, making house training easier for both of you.

Jumping up is a common behaviour learned as a puppy, but in adult dogs, it can range from mildly irritating to potentially dangerous. While a small dog jumping up to greet someone may only cause minor scratches, a large dog—such as a boerboel—can knock someone over, potentially causing serious injury, especially to elderly people or young children. As such, jumping up is generally considered bad manners.

In both dogs and wolves, the junior animal greets the senior by licking the mouth and face as a sign of respect. When you bring a puppy home, it instinctively wants to do the same thing to you. Since your face is much higher than another dog's, the puppy jumps up to reach it. Many owners find this behaviour cute (which it is), and by responding with happy sounds and attention, the puppy learns that jumping up is rewarded. Unfortunately, this behaviour becomes less desirable when the puppy grows into a large adult dog.

The key to preventing jumping up is to avoid rewarding it. Instead, bend down to greet the puppy before it has a chance to jump. This lowers your face to its level, and you can choose whether or not to let the puppy lick your face. Then, immediately ask the puppy to sit—this is important, as a dog cannot jump up while sitting. When the puppy sits, reward it with praise or a treat. This reinforces the behaviour and helps the puppy understand that sitting calmly is what earns attention.

Consistency is important, so ensure all family members greet the puppy in the same way. You can also practice this with guests, teaching them to reward the puppy for sitting.

If the puppy does jump up, ignore the behaviour completely—turn your back and refrain from making any noise, as even a squeal or "no" can be seen as attention, which may encourage the behaviour. Only greet the puppy when all four paws are on the ground or when it is sitting calmly, depending on its training progress.

When guests arrive, instruct your puppy to sit while you open the door. In the early stages, you may need help to manage the greeting. Have a treat ready for your guest to give the puppy once it's sitting. Even as your dog gets older and the sitting behaviour becomes a habit, continue to reward it occasionally to reinforce the behaviour and keep it consistent.

With patience and consistency, your dog will learn to greet people politely, without jumping up.

Teaching your puppy to reliably come when called is one of the most important training lessons. It can make all the difference in ensuring your puppy’s safety and building a strong bond.

Start by calling your puppy’s name at feeding time, then reward it with its meal. Carry small, tasty treats, such as biltong (game biltong works well as it’s not greasy), in your pocket throughout the day. Periodically call your puppy to you, rewarding it with praise and a treat when it comes.

Begin training in a quiet environment, like your garden, where there are fewer distractions. Gradually introduce more distractions and practice in new places. Don’t expect the same level of response in a new location, as dogs associate specific places with behaviours. Start with short distances, and build up to longer ones as your puppy gets more reliable.

If your puppy doesn’t come when called, don’t chase it! Instead, run away excitedly while calling its name. When the puppy catches up to you, reward it with praise. This keeps the recall fun and positive.

Never, ever call your puppy to you to punish it. If it learns that coming to you means punishment, it will start avoiding you when called.

Avoid getting into the habit of repeatedly calling your puppy. If it doesn’t respond the first time, try running away to encourage it to follow. If it still doesn’t come, hide from view until it starts looking for you, then call it again. Most puppies will instinctively search for you if you disappear.

To help your puppy succeed, avoid calling it when it’s highly distracted (e.g., playing with other puppies or chasing a toy). Only call when you’re confident it understands the command and is likely to respond. Start with short distances and gradually increase the challenge as your puppy becomes more reliable.

A fun game is to have a family member hold the puppy while you hide. Call your puppy when you’re in place, and let it come and find you. This builds a positive association with the recall command.

Even when your dog is older, continue practising recalls during walks. Randomly call your dog to you for a pat and a treat. Be mindful that some dogs may start to associate coming to you with the end of their fun walk, so keep it positive and unpredictable to maintain their enthusiasm.

By consistently practising recall in various situations, you’ll build a strong, reliable response that will serve your puppy—and you—well for years to come.

Pulling on the lead is a common issue that starts in puppyhood, and while it’s manageable with a small puppy, it can become a real challenge when that tiny pup grows into a 50kg Rottweiler dragging you down the street!

Start by introducing your puppy to the lead in a quiet, familiar space like your garden. Let the puppy get used to the feeling of the lead without any pressure. Once your puppy is comfortable, you can begin formal training.

Pulling usually happens because dogs learn that pulling gets them where they want to go faster. To teach your puppy not to pull, you need to show them that walking calmly beside you is the only way to reach their destination.

When your puppy walks nicely next to you, reward it with praise and treats. If your puppy starts pulling ahead, stop walking and wait. Eventually, your puppy will return to you. When it does, praise and reward it. Continue this process every time it pulls. It may take some patience, but the puppy will soon realise that pulling means no progress.

Start in a low-distraction area and gradually increase the difficulty by walking in more exciting environments as your puppy gets better at walking calmly.

For older dogs who already pull on the lead, a Halti can be a game-changer. This humane tool fits loosely around the dog’s muzzle and behind its ears, with the lead attaching under the chin. The Halti gives you full control over your dog's head, preventing it from pulling with its shoulders and front legs. Any pulling will turn the dog’s head toward you, making it much easier to guide them.

The Halti is a great alternative to a choke chain, especially for large or boisterous dogs who are difficult to control. It allows your dog to pant, drink, and eat normally while still giving you effective control.

By starting early and using positive reinforcement, you can teach your puppy to walk calmly on the lead, making walks enjoyable for both of you!

Mouthing and biting are common behaviours in puppies. Puppies explore the world with their mouths, and their sharp teeth can make this stage painful for owners. They naturally bite and chew everything, including hands and feet, as part of their learning process and play. Additionally, puppies have an instinct to chase movement, which, in the wild, would develop into a hunting instinct. They also practice play fighting with their littermates, and, in their view, we are just another "dog" to play with.

However, puppies need to learn that humans are fragile and need to be treated gently. Sharp puppy teeth can hurt, and clothes are easily torn, especially if your puppy gets overly excited. Children, with their high-pitched voices and fast movements, are particularly irresistible to puppies and may become the focus of their chasing and biting.

The key to managing puppy biting is not rewarding it. For puppies, rewards often come in the form of attention, chasing games, and tugging. If your puppy starts to bite, don’t engage in the game by running away or playing. Instead, give a sharp, high-pitched shriek and turn your back on the puppy. Stand still and avoid interacting for a few seconds. After a brief pause, resume playing, but if the biting resumes, repeat the shriek and turn away. This teaches the puppy that biting results in no attention or fun.

Over time, the puppy will learn to be gentler. You can also redirect its biting onto suitable toys, which are perfectly fine for the puppy to chew on. When it bites the toy, praise and reward it to reinforce the desired behaviour.

For puppies who are especially drawn to moving items like skirts or hands, stop moving and try to redirect their attention to a toy. If necessary, limit the wearing of certain clothing items, like skirts, until the puppy grows out of this phase.

Children should avoid running near the puppy unless they are actively engaging in play with a toy. Playful tug games are popular, but some puppies may enjoy making you shriek and turn away, continuing to bite for attention. In this case, a quick "time-out" can be helpful: briefly remove the puppy from the situation (e.g., by putting it in a separate room) for a few seconds before resuming play.

With patience, consistency, and clear boundaries, your puppy will learn to play without resorting to biting.

One common challenge for puppy owners is when the puppy picks up a forbidden item, such as a shoe or underwear, and runs off with it—often with the intention of destroying it. Many owners instinctively chase the puppy to get the item back, but this actually turns the situation into a fun game for the puppy. Not only has it found something interesting, but now you’re chasing it too, making the whole thing even more exciting. Shouting at the puppy doesn’t help either.

The key is to stay calm and use distraction techniques. Have a supply of treats or a toy ready. Ignore the puppy and pretend you don’t care about the item it has taken. For example, rustle a treat bag to make it sound interesting or start playing with a toy on the floor. By showing excitement and focus on something else, you’ll get the puppy’s attention. Most puppies will be curious about what you’re doing and come over to investigate. When the puppy approaches, reward it with a treat in exchange for the item it’s holding. If it’s a toy, you can also engage the puppy in play for a while.

This teaches the puppy that returning the stolen item leads to something positive—whether that’s a treat or more fun playtime. As a result, the puppy will be more likely to give up objects voluntarily. Proactive tip: Next time, put your shoes or valuables away out of the puppy's reach to avoid the issue in the first place.

Another common issue is puppies raiding the dustbin. The only reliable solution is to prevent access by putting the bin out of reach or using a puppy-proof lid. While some owners try setting up "traps"—like a pile of tins that fall over when the puppy gets too close—these methods only work temporarily. A determined puppy will soon figure out how to bypass them, so securing the bin is the best long-term solution.

Teaching a puppy to retrieve can be tricky, but there are two effective methods you can try.

1. Tug-to-Retrieve Method: Start by playing with a tug toy to get your dog used to holding something in its mouth. As soon as your dog has a firm grip, say a command like "hold" or "fetch" to pair the action with the word. Next, gently pull the toy so the dog sits down, then say “give” or “leave” to get it to release the toy. Reward with another game of tug. Throw the toy a short distance and call your dog back to you. If the dog runs off with the toy, don’t chase. Instead, call it back excitedly or turn away and walk off to encourage it to return. Gradually increase the distance and consistency with practice.
2. Clicker Training Method: For dogs that are less comfortable with objects in their mouths, or older dogs that weren’t taught as puppies, clicker training can be a great option. Start by clicking and treating when your dog shows interest in the article, then when it mouths the object. The timing of your click is crucial: it must come when the dog first takes the item into its mouth, not when it drops it. Gradually reward longer durations of holding the item, and always finish a training session on a positive note—if your dog does something new, click and reward, then stop. This prevents overloading the dog and helps cement the learning.

Both methods require patience and consistency. Always remember to stop training on a high note to keep your dog motivated and eager for the next session.